How to read ingredient labels on hair products.

Have you ever picked up a hair product and felt completely lost trying to decipher what's listed on the label? You're not alone! Understanding hair label ingredients can be overwhelming, but it's important to know what you're putting in your hair. Here's a guide on how to read and understand hair label ingredients.

 

There are two major types of ingredients: active ingredients, and inactive ingredients. Active ingredients are the ingredients in a formulation that are biologically active or have a direct effect on the treatment or prevention of a specific problem or state of one's hair or scalp.  Whereas inactive ingredients have no effect on the hair itself. They are mainly used to transport the active ingredient into the scalp and hair or help with the product's stability, scent, or texture.

 

The first five ingredients listed on a label make up the majority of the product. However, this doesn't mean they are the most active ingredients. Keep in mind that the amount does not always mean more or less effective when it comes to ingredient labels. For example, an active ingredient can be at the end of a label, due to factors like concentration, or safety regulations. Only a small amount is needed or allowed for the formulation, and a little can go a long way. Every hair product has a specific purpose, whether it’s to moisturize, cleanse, strengthen, or even slick down those baby hairs. Understanding the purpose of the product will help you understand the ingredient's purpose.

 

Here are some typical components that can come into use when formulating hair products:

  • Surfactants: These are cleansing agents that help to remove dirt and oil from hair in shampoos and are conditioning agents in  conditioners that help smooth and reduce static in the hair,  these ingredients will be the active ingredients in shampoo and conditioners.

 

  • Emollients: These are ingredients that seal moisture in the hair by filling in the cracks along the shaft to keep the moisture in. They also smoothen and soften the hair, and they are usually the active ingredients in styling products and conditioners.

 

  • Occlusive: These ingredients have pretty much the same functions as emollients, however, they are heavier ingredients and form a film around the hair shaft. They are usually active ingredients in styling products and conditioners.

 

  • Humectants: These are ingredients that help to attract and retain moisture in the hair, helping to volumize the hair by attracting moisture and binding it, which causes the hair shaft to expand. They are usually active ingredients in styling products and conditioners.

 

  • Emulsifiers/Thickerners: Emulsifiers help keep certain ingredients from separating. Most commonly in hair products, they are used to allow oil and water to mix and remain stable in the product. Thickeners enhance the stability and texture of products. These are inactive ingredients used in all types of products,

 

  • Preservatives: These are inactive ingredients that help to prevent bacterial growth and extend the shelf life of hair products.

 

  • Fragrances: They add a pleasant scent to hair products, even though they can cause allergies and irritation to sensitive skin they are inactive ingredients in hair product formulations.

 

  • Colorants: These are ingredients that add color to hair products. They also can cause irritation or  allergies and are inactive ingredients in hair product formulations

 

The specific combination and concentration of these components in a hair product formulation will depend on the product's intended use and the desired performance characteristics. Under each of these components are several subcategories that address certain concerns for the hair. It's important to research these components and see how they affect your hair based on its characteristics and relative humidity.  When reading ingredients, start with understanding and identifying the purpose of the product, then from there research ingredients that do as the product claims and see if you can find these ingredients on the label. 

Then from there, you can narrow it down based on your preferences and methodologies.  Keep in mind just because you can't pronounce an ingredient doesn't mean it's bad. These chemicals with scary-sounding names are typically derived from natural ingredients and scary names don’t always mean harmful or toxic. There are many resources online that can help you understand what an ingredient does and whether it's safe to use, INCIDecoder, Ulprospector, and EWG are just a few. Reading and understanding hair label ingredients can be overwhelming, but it's important to know what you're putting in your hair and over time it will get easier. 

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Elia Seyfried

Elia enjoys a good book, is a hair care enthusiast, loves to write, and hopes to inspire and educate through her work.

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