Bond Builders
Hair damage is a common struggle for many people, whether it's due to heat styling, chemical treatments, environmental factors, or everyday wear and tear. The beauty industry has developed numerous solutions to restore damaged hair, but one of the most revolutionary innovations in recent years is bond-building treatments. If you’ve ever wondered what bond builders are, how they work, and whether you need one in your hair care routine, this guide will provide all the answers.
What Is a Bond Builder?
A bond builder is a hair treatment designed to repair and reinforce the internal structure of your hair by targeting the molecular bonds that keep strands strong and resilient. Unlike deep conditioners or protein treatments that work on the hair's outer layers, bond builders go deep into the hair shaft to restore and strengthen its core.
What a Bond Builder Is NOT:
A Deep Conditioner: While deep conditioners add moisture and nourishment, bond builders focus on repairing structural damage.
A Protein Treatment: Although bond builders can contain proteins, their primary function is repairing disulfide bonds rather than simply strengthening the cuticle.
A Quick Fix: Bond-building treatments offer long-term benefits, but they require consistency for optimal results.
How Bond Builders Work
To understand how bond builders function, it’s essential to grasp a little hair science. Hair is made up of keratin protein chains held together by different types of bonds:
Disulfide Bonds: These are the strongest bonds in your hair and are responsible for its shape and structure. They can be permanently broken by bleach, chemical relaxers, and perm solutions. High heat (such as extreme flat ironing) can also weaken them over time. Disulfide bonds can only be repaired by bond-building treatments designed to relink them, such as Olaplex and K18.
Hydrogen Bonds: These bonds provide temporary strength and are altered by water and heat. When you wet your hair, hydrogen bonds break, allowing the hair to be reshaped (like curling or straightening). They reform as the hair dries, which is why wet setting hair is effective. Humidity can also weaken these bonds temporarily, causing frizz. Hydrogen bonds naturally reset with drying, cool air, and pH-balancing treatments.
Salt Bonds: These help maintain hair’s elasticity and strength. They can be disrupted by changes in pH levels, such as highly alkaline or acidic hair products. Overuse of harsh shampoos, chemical treatments, and even hard water can weaken these bonds, making hair more prone to breakage. Restoring salt bonds involves using pH-balanced products and ensuring the hair's protein and moisture levels are balanced.
Types of Bond Builders
There are several types of bond-building treatments on the market, each formulated with unique technology to repair hair differently. Below are the most common categories:
1. Disulfide Bond Builders (e.g., Olaplex, K18, Redken Acidic Bonding Concentrate)
These treatments focus on relinking broken disulfide bonds within the hair. They use patented technology, like Olaplex’s Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate, to permanently rebuild these bonds, making hair significantly stronger and more resistant to damage. These are best for hair that has undergone chemical processing, such as bleaching, perming, or relaxing.
2. Amino Acid-Based Bond Builders (e.g., K18)
Instead of just repairing existing bonds, some treatments, like K18, use biomimetic peptides to reconnect polypeptide chains within the hair. This restores hair to a near-virgin state and helps prevent future breakage. These treatments work on all three types of bonds, but their primary focus is on strengthening keratin structures to prevent breakage.
3. Protein-Enriched Bond Builders (e.g., Joico Defy Damage, Aphogee)
Some bond builders incorporate hydrolyzed proteins that mimic the natural structure of hair, reinforcing its cuticle layer while repairing bonds. These work best for highly porous or chemically treated hair, as they help strengthen weak spots but do not necessarily repair disulfide bonds permanently. These treatments support hydrogen and salt bonds by improving the structural integrity of hair strands.
4. pH-Balanced Bond Builders (e.g., Redken Acidic Bonding Concentrate, L’Oréal Smartbond)
These treatments restore pH balance in the hair, helping maintain salt bonds and prevent excessive breakage from chemical processing. They work well for hair that’s frequently exposed to harsh chemical treatments or alkaline products. Since pH balance is crucial for hydrogen and salt bonds, these treatments help reinforce them indirectly.
5. Multi-Bond Repair Treatments (e.g., B3 Brazilian Bond Builder, Schwarzkopf Fibreplex)
Some products combine different bond-repairing technologies to target multiple bond types in one formula. These are excellent for individuals with extreme damage from repeated coloring or bleaching, as they support disulfide, hydrogen, and salt bonds to rebuild the hair from within.
Who Needs a Bond Builder?
Not everyone requires a bond-building treatment, but you may benefit from using one if:
You frequently bleach, dye, or chemically process your hair.
You use heat tools like straighteners or curling irons regularly.
Your hair feels weak, brittle, or overly porous.
You experience excessive shedding or breakage.
Your curls have lost their natural bounce due to damage.
How to Use Bond Builders in Your Routine
Bond-building treatments come in different forms, including pre-shampoo treatments, leave-ins, masks, and salon-exclusive services. Here’s how to incorporate them into your routine:
1. In-Salon Treatments
Professional bond builders like Olaplex No.1 and No.2, K18 Pro, and L’Oréal Smartbond are used during chemical services to minimize damage before, during, and after processing.
2. At-Home Bonding Treatments
Many brands offer take-home versions of their professional treatments, such as:
Olaplex No.3 (weekly pre-shampoo treatment)
K18 Leave-In Molecular Repair Mask (post-wash treatment)
Redken Acidic Bonding Concentrate Shampoo & Conditioner (daily maintenance)
3. Bond-Building Shampoos and Conditioners
If you don’t have severe damage but want to maintain hair health, using a bonding shampoo and conditioner can help keep your strands strong over time.
4. Leave-In Bonding Treatments
Lightweight bond repair serums or creams like Bumble & Bumble Bond-Building Repair Treatment help strengthen hair daily without weighing it down.
Final Thoughts: Do You Need a Bond Builder?
Bond builders are a game-changer for damaged hair, helping to restore strength and resilience by repairing molecular bonds. If your hair is prone to breakage, limpness, or extreme dryness due to chemical or heat damage, investing in a bond-building treatment could dramatically improve your hair’s health over time.
At Tresslog, we believe in informed hair care, and tracking the effectiveness of your treatments is crucial. Try logging your bond-building routine in the Tresslog app to monitor improvements and discover what works best for your hair.
Ready to start your bond-repair journey? Let’s rebuild those bonds and bring your hair back to life!